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Pascal Agrapart
Vigneron |
Pascal Agrapart |
Location |
Avize (Marne) |
Size of Domaine |
12 ha |
Terroir |
Continental climate with Oceanic influence. Clay-limestone soil on chalk bedrock. Various aspects, gentles slopes. 100-200m altitude. |
Viticulture |
Soils are mechanically ploughed, no herbicide or insecticide. Sulphur and copper against mildew/oidium although fungicide might be used in case of extreme pressure. |
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The Agraparts have been renowned for the quality of their blanc de blancs champagnes for many generations and even when the world queues outside his door trying to get an allocation, Pascal continues to be modest, reserved and down to earth, a true farmer and man of the earth. No website here, certainly no social media, no mixed metaphors, complex allusions or word games. Logic and experience guide him – his own and that of his family before him. Taking over the domaine in 1985 Pascal has quietly progressed to the point where he is a true master of his profession.
The best treatments are sunshine, air and ploughing the vines. 75% of a wine’s quality comes from the roots. We have ploughed here for five generations and the vines are very deep-rooted
They have 12ha of vineyards, and 50% of the vines are planted in the grand cru of Avize, where Selosse also has most of his vineyards. When asked about the vineyard practices he explains, "my model is the pyramid. If the foundation is not solid, then nothing else works. I viewed the practices of previous generations as the base. If I had used herbicides then I would have undermined the foundations." Pascal works according to the natural rhythms in the vineyard. "The best treatments are sunshine, air and ploughing the vines. 75% of a wine’s quality comes from the roots. We have ploughed here for five generations and the vines are very deep-rooted. In hot vintages, our wines always do well because the vines can find water and nutrients deep below. I work the soil four to five times per season, when I see earth turned over, gently steaming in the cool early morning air, I find that beautiful."
Pascal has gradually evolved his range of champagnes organising his pressings and tanks according to soil type, and, as exemplified by his fine vintage Minéral, is not afraid to blend the wines from two villages together. His champagnes are enhanced by an extremely well-judged élevage – three of the five wines are aged in a mix of cuve and 5–10yo 600ltr demi-muids when Avizoise and Vénus are aged solely in demi-muids.
Stylistically the wines are of a naturally expressive and vinous character – there is no mistaking their inimitable class, style and capacity to age. They are mid-weight, in between Larmandier-Bernier’s rigour and tension, and Selosse’s concentration, power and complexity.
There are not many growers whose champagnes are pretty well guaranteed to age well, but Agrapart is one – with the perfect élevage for each champagne, patience applied during ageing, ideal deep cellar and controlled temperature for the secondary fermentation, and an understanding of disgorging, dosage and quality of corks that reflect a grower at the top of his game. The only problem with Agrapart champagnes is that the demand for them is so high worldwide and we can’t get enough!
Our PASCAL AGRAPART WINES
PASCAL AGRAPART
LES 7 CRUS
90% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Noir (12% alc.)
This comes from vines in seven villages, including the Grands Crus of Avize and Cramant. Blended from the 2017 and 2016 vintages and given over two years 'sur lattes', the dosage of 5g/l is well-judged, helping to emphasize its driving fruitiness and minerality. It is a perfect example of how a good NV champagne balances character and authenticity with sheer, delicious drinkability. Disgorged 06/20.
PASCAL AGRAPART
TERROIRS
Grand Cru
100% Chardonnay (12% alc.)
A blend of the 2016 and 2015 vintages, made exclusively from 25-40yo vines on prime plots in the Grands Cru villages of Avize (50%), Cramant, Oger and Oiry. Fabulous colour with more depth than Les 7 Crus, it is much finer and deeper, a more structured champagne aged for 36 months 'sur lattes'. Buttery notes and fresh almond on the nose with hints of menthol and liquorice on the palate. Disgorged 06/20 - Dosage 5g/l.